Adjustments and Food for Thought

Hello again,

I was able to make a little more progress this week than I did last.  I managed to pin and stitch up the bodice.  Now it is adjustment and brain work time.

When I was working on my preliminary Full Bust Adjustments (FBA), I only completed these adjustments on the Front Bodice Sides.  I made no adjustments to the Bodice Front piece because I was unsure on how exactly it would be affected, now I do.  While lining up the Side pieces to the front, I wound up folding little darts into the Side pieces.  Once the bodice was stitched up, I took my seam ripper to where my unofficial darts were, and freed the Front from its sides.  Then I used the gingham to my advantage.  I cut across the Bodice Front along 1 of the gingham lines.  Afterwards, I pinned in a patch of scrap fabric behind to better see how much I need to add to that section of the pattern.  My next step for this will be to recreate this portion with the new adjustment included.
 

 The other preliminary adjustment I did was a 1 inch kick-out for the waist on all sides.  When I tried on the mock-up for the first time, it was a little big on both sides.  I may be able to take it in about 1/2 inch on both sides.  However, I want to sit on this a little.  The last time I went to the doctor's office for my Upper Respiratory Virus,  I was informed that I had lost about 14-16 lbs since May.  So it is possible that my waist size is smaller then my last measurement session.

Currently it is difficult for me to tell because of how loose the back is on me.  I re-read the instructions a couple of times to get a handle on what was going on, also why the zipper required is 7-9 inches and not longer.  I now understand.  Instead of the zipper being used on the bodice, it is actually supposed to be for the skirt portion.  The bodice back center seam is supposed to be stitched up and eyelet lacing bars are supposed to flank it.  The lacing is what is supposed to give the bodice its shape.  The best solution for the mock-up to replicate this without actually making the Eyelet bar for the mock-up, would be to have a longer zipper close to the Eyelet bars' placement


The long and short of it is that I have some thinking to do this upcoming week.  I know what I need to do for the FBA, which has to get done.  The others may be alright for me to let slide as they are.  After the fix-it adjustments that I need to make, I need to mock-up the sleeves.  Afterwards I will hopefully be able to begin the final version with the proper fabric.

Until next week...


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