A True Beginning of the Autumnal Project

Hello again,

I am bubbly with excitement and anticipation.  With this past week I have officially began work on my new Renaissance Dress for the year.  Yay!  Last year I came to the realization that going to the Ohio Renaissance Faire is an annual not bi-annual event.  After cobbling a pirate-esk ensemble from pieces that I naturally have, this year required a new dress.

Past Renaissance dresses of mine included firstly "Renewed Radiance,"  which as a maker I am painfully aware of my lack of knowledge at the time.  I have done that best that I can with it, and I will leave it at that.  Secondly there was "Water Lily," which was featured in this blog.  This one was a lot better then "Renewed Radiance."   The flaws are fixable, and I know how to go about it.  The main hold off on reviving that one just yet is the fact that I made it a size or 2 too small.  I did manage to zip me up in it and fortunately it was an empire waist style (think "Ever After" with Drew Barrymore), so I wasn't gasping for air because it was too tight. 

This time I have finally made my way through the Colette Sewing Handbook.  I feel better prepared with manipulating this pattern just right so that it will flatter and fit me wonderfully, not to mention my "design stamp" on the ensemble.

Time to back track just a little bit.  When I was preparing and packing for my artist salon this year, in addition to "Peacock Garden" and the shoes, I went ahead and traced the pattern pieces for my new Renaissance dress to take with me.  I didn't know what all I would touch, so I figured why not. I did not work on this dress during my Vacation, but I was fine with that.  I was happy with all that I did do that I'm not kicking myself about it.

This week I was able to begin manipulating the pattern to fit me, well at least the top portion of the dress. I know what size combinations that I am now, and how to create those manipulations to fit me best. 

Manipulating this dress, especially the top, is still going to be a challenge to me.  

1. Butterick Size 20 translates into a Colette Size 14, while I am nor.  So with the sizing I had to figure out how to reconfigure the pieces to match a Colette Size 16.
2. Princess Seam. Prior to this I had not had any experience with Princess seam.  This would not be as big of a deal if I didn't have to complete a FBA (Full Bust Adjustment), which takes place along the Princess cut seams

What I wound up doing was adding .5" to the Front Center and Back Center Lines to change the size to a Colette 16.  Somethings that I have learned from past projects is that the FBA should be completed prior to doing a kick-out adjustment for the waist.  So that is what I did next.  I took the Front Side piece (5),  and used the seam allowance as a guide for manipulation.

After I completed this I then did the side seam kick-out for the waist.  I wish that I had remembered about my clear restickable glue stick while working on the Piece #5.  I think this would have helped and made things easier with the adjustments.  But as can be seen, I did remember.  It was great for a preliminary tack-down, but I still had to tape the pieces together, in order for them to stay in place.  

Now Top Draft set #1 is complete and ready for mock-up, which will hopefully take place this upcoming week.

Again I am happy and excited about this project and the start that I've made.  

Until next time...